The end of the Mojo story!

This is a pic of my Mojo at Berth 22, Dock gate 4, Southampton Docks waiting to be loaded on the Sirrius Leader. It is bound for Yokohama in Japan.

A wonderful thing! The retest was a breeze! As Southampton had produced such a detailed list of the failures, it was a simple task to go through the failures assessing my rectification work. 45 mins and it was all over.

U-tube Manometers and brakes!
My Mojo failed its SVA because the brake fluid reservoir was deemed to be too low.
What I had done was mount the reservoir with the low fill line just above the master cylinder inlet. However this meant that the hose that connects the reservior to the master cylinder followed a torturous route going above the master cylinder and then below. In reality the route of the hose is irrelevant as long as there is a sufficient head of fluid above the master cylinder. This is 'O' level u-tube manometer stuff.

In order to satisfy the tester I had to do to 2 thnigs raise the reservoir and change the method by which the hose is attached to the master cyliner. Originally I had used a straight push-on adapter from Merlin. This meant that the hoses were attached vertically to the master cylinder accentuating the up and down hose path. I replaced thses with push on banjo fittings from AP Racing part number CP2623-41 (available from Demon Tweeks).



These are very nice peices of kit. They allow the hose to enter horizontally giving a much neater hose path.

Below is a picture of my now SVA compliant brake system.

Bleeding Brakes!

I'm in process of getting my Mojo ready for it's SVA re-test. As I've had to dismantle some of the brake pipes, I have had to bleed the brakes.
There is a small issue when it comes to bleeding brakes on a Mojo or Riot. The rear calipers are from a Sierra and are mounted to an upside down Fiesta front upright. The consequence of this is the bleed nipple is lower than the inlet hose. This allows a cavity of air to exist between the hose inlet and the bleed nipple. No amount of bleeding will get rid of this air. The only satifactory way to bleed the rear brakes is to remove the rear calipers. Having done this a few time, I've got quite good at it!

Firstly find a peice of wood approx 2" x 2" and cut is diagonally to form 2 wedges.
Now remove one caliper at a time and fit the wedges between the piston and caliper. This will stop the piston coming out during the bleeding operation.

Then rotate the caliper so the bleed nipple is directly above the hose inlet. Now you can bleed as normal. Refit the caliper and repeat on the other side.